What is black tie attire? The do’s and don’ts of what to wear

While the end of July is fast approaching, wedding season is still in full swing, and some last-minute invitations might still be trickling into your postbox. And, to your horror, some of these invitations might even include the three fearsome words “black tie attire”. Black tie is that one dress code that always seems to create the most confusion: it’s scarily specific, and projects a level of formality that seems almost unattainable to mere mortals.

If you have a black tie event coming up, don’t panic: nailing the look is actually easier than it seems.

Simply put, black tie attire means that men and women who dabble in suiting should wear a black bowtie with their dinner jacket. Black tie is considered a semi-formal attire, a step below the increasingly rare white tie. When it comes to dresses, floor-length gowns are the safest option—as, generally speaking, black tie for women simply means “long”.

Still not so clear? Don’t fret. Here’s our breakdown of everything you need to know about black tie attire.

As we were saying, black tie for women usually means a floor-length ball gown or evening dress with appropriate accessories to match. To avoid committing a style faux pas and to put your mind at ease, the best way to gauge how committed the host is to their black tie attire is simply asking: more relaxed hosts might allow more versatility. With your host’s approval, cocktail and tea dresses that reach past the knee, and even palazzo pants with an elegant blouse will do the trick.

If you want to play it safe, a gorgeous, classic gown paired with a flowy scarf or shawl, an elegant clutch, and your favourite high heels is a surefire way to ace the black tie attire look.

A little black dress with the same accessories can also be a fresh and modern take on the dress code—on the condition that it’s not too short.

When it comes to colours, black is a more than appropriate choice that can be spruced up with jewellery and accessories, but don’t shy away from jewel tones and pastel shades depending on the season. Some colours are only off-limits if you’re attending a black tie wedding: stay away from anything that could pass as white—including ultra pale pinks, blues, and yellows—and remember to check what hue the bridal party is wearing to avoid matching.

• The right fabrics – Evening-appropriate, high-quality fabrics like velvet, chiffon, silk, or lace are what to look out for, whether you’re going for a ball gown or an elegant pantsuit.
• Elevated accessories – If you’re keeping it simple in the dress department—say, with a chic LBD—make sure you up the ante on the accessories: diamonds and pearls always do the trick, and so will an elegant jewel clutch. The host will appreciate your effort and you’ll stand out in a sea of guests who will also likely be wearing black.
• Sensible heels – Before deciding on your shoes, remember to scope out the venue and take note of any impervious terrains that your stilettos might not be able to handle. Ain’t no shame in a sensible heel!
• Minimal makeup and a sleek hairdo – Makeup for a black tie event should err on the minimal side, highlighting just one feature—like a bold lip or a smokey eye. Elegant hairdos like chignons, updos, or cascading curls are perfect for the occasion.

• Bold prints – It’s July, the sun is out, and all we’re craving is bold, summery prints. Still, many prints are simply too casual for a black tie event.
• Daring choices – Black tie events, especially weddings, aren’t the place for bold fashion statements, so it might be best to skip the cutouts, sheer panels, and rhinestones. Instead, go for something more classic that still feels like you.
• Ultra mini dresses – The same goes for mini dresses. The dress code might mean “dress to impress”, but a barely-there ultra-mini might feel out of place at a fundraiser gala. Knee-lengths are a better option.
• Flats – Unless you’re wearing a tuxedo or a sharp suit, we’d recommend skipping the flats for a black tie event.
• Large bags – Bags, like all accessories, should be elegant and minimal. Therefore, skip the shoulder bags or, God forbid, the tote bags and stick to a classic clutch.

Black tie attire for men is more straightforward for men than it is for women. While a tuxedo isn’t mandatory, it is the preferable option and the quintessential black tie outfit. A tuxedo is also the surefire way to ensure that you blend in with the rest of the guests—in a good way, of course!—and avoid looking like the odd one out.

Black and midnight blue are the traditional colours for dinner jackets, but off-white can also be appropriate for warmer climates.

Unless you’re going for a contrasting look, match your (well-fitting) suit trousers with your jacket. A low-cut waistcoat or a cummerbund are integral parts of the tuxedo outfit, and so is the black tie namesake, the black silk bowtie. A crisp white dress shirt is a must and should be worn with cufflinks. Your dress shoes should be black, and your socks also black to match.

A formal dinner suit is also appropriate in place of a tuxedo, and you should follow the same rules: go for black, navy, or dark ink, spruce up your white shirt with cufflinks and shirt studs, wear a solid-coloured bowtie, and match your dress shoes to your suit. If you want to stand out, a smoking jacket in velvet or textured materials will surely turn heads, but a classic silk-lapel dinner jacket is the traditional choice.

• Dark colours – Black and dark blues are the most appropriate choices for a black tie event. Darks greys and browns are sometimes acceptable but somewhat informal, so check with the host about the level of formality of the event.
• Matching your socks to your suit – One of the cardinal rules of suiting is matching your socks to your suit—so, if you’re wearing black pants, make sure you also wear black socks.
• Elegant shoes – Formal shoes are a must: depending on the suit, loafers, derbies, and monk straps can all work well. If your outfit’s colour scheme doesn’t demand otherwise, black is the right choice. Fancy materials like velvet or patent leather can also be a lovely touch.

• Bold prints and colours – Similarly to the ladies, bold colours and loud prints can read too casual for a semi-formal dress code like black tie attire.
• Casual suits – A black tie event is the chance to get your best suit out of the closet! Leave your more casual pieces for cocktail attire events.
• Accent socks – A fun accent sock can be a quirky and stylish way to dress down a suit or spice up a casual outfit. For a black tie event, though, it’s better to keep it classic with matching socks.
• Ties – Generally speaking, a tux can be worn with a tie, and a black suit with a black tie wouldn’t be that bad for a formal occasion. Nevertheless, unless the black tie event you’re attending is erring on the casual side it’s best to stick with a bowtie.