Would you steal these shoes? A brief history of the iconic Tabi

This is a love story. Or is it?

Early this month, the online fashion community was shaken by the story of Lexus, a NYC fashion girlie who had her precious Maison Margiela Mary Jane Tabis stolen by Josh, her Tinder date, after a hookup. Shocked by the heinous crime and thirsting for justice Lexus took to TikTok, and thus the legend of the Tinder Tabi Swiper was born.

Luckily for Lexus, her dramatic tale has a happy ending: Josh eventually returned the shoes, and our heroine was even gifted a fresh pair of Margiela Tabi pumps from fashion retailer SSENSE. Yay!

The tabi silhouette, with the big toe separated from the rest, is one of fashion’s most iconic, recognisable, and polarising silhouettes.

But what’s so special about tabi shoes? What makes them desirable enough to steal?

Tabis were popularised in Western fashion by Belgian designer Martin Margiela, but have existed in Japan since the 15th century, originally as socks to be worn with traditional thonged footwear.

During the 20th century, Tabis became sneakers and running shoes and started gaining popularity thanks to businessman Shojiro Ishibashi’s rubber-soled Jinka-tabis sneakers, which maintain the classic sock-like shape, and the brand Onitsuka. At the same time, Nike debuts the iconic split-toe Air Rifts, still favoured by fashion insiders, sporty fellows, and senior citizens alike.

Enter Martin Margiela and his eponymous brand’s first collection (SS89). Presented in Paris at Café de la Guerre, the collection featured the first Tabi ankle boots, whose soles were painted red in order to leave prints on the white carpet, that Margiela later used to craft a jacket. The unusual “hoof” silhouette was as controversial then as it is now, but the public was quick to catch on with the Tabi hype.

Back to the present, Margiela offers a wide range of Tabi shoes, from knee-high boots to ballet flats, loafers, collabos with Reebok, and obviously the coveted Mary Janes. What makes them so special is their undeniable ugly-chic appeal, as well as their “the girls that get it, get it” cult status.

So, would you steal these shoes?